^misii^ii^ig 



ON THE 



CULTURE AND GROWTH 



OF 



DIFFERENT SORTS OF FLOWER ROOTS, 

AXD OF ' 



QREEN HOUSE PLANTS KEPT IN ROOMS, &c^. » 

TO WHICH IS ADDED, 



A TABLE OF THE LINNiEAN CLASSES OF BOTANY, 
WITH THEIR ORDERS AND EXAMPLES. 

BY JjV. CASEY5___ 

SEEDSMAN. ^^<<1s^XiijE.- 

BALTIMORE; 

Published by the Author, No. 2 Hanover st. Baltimore. 

PRINTED BY JOHN D. TOT, 

1821. 



BiSTRfGT OF MARYLAND, to wit. 

BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the thulieth day of 
2:********1 I^ecember, in the forty -fifth vear of the Inde- 
f svAT I pendence of the United States of America, 
I ^-^^^ I A. D. 1820, J. P. Casey, of the said District, 
*«**m44* hath deposited in this office the title of a book, 

the right whereof he claims as proprietor, in the words 

following, to wit; 

"A Treatise on the Culture and Growth of different 
sorts of Flower Roots, and of green house Plants kept in 
rooms, &c. to which is added, a table of the Linnsean classes 
of Botany, with their orders and examples." 

In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United 
otates, entitled, "An act for the encouragement of learn- 
ing, by securing the copies of maps, charts and books, to 
the authors aad proprietors of such copies during the times 
therem mentioned," and also to the act, entitled, "An act 
supplementary to an act, entitled, <an act for the encour- 
agement ol learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts 
and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, 
dunng the times therein mentioned, and extending the 
benelits thereot to the arts of designing, engraving and 
etching historical and other prints.' " 

^■^ ^\^ PHILIP MOORE, 

C. r3>^ ^ Clerk of the District of Manjland, 



ADVERTISEMENT 



The treatise now presented^ prin- 
cipally to tlie notice of Ladies, is the 
result of twenty years personal experi- 
ence, in the culture and management of 
plants, and is intended chiefly for the 
instruction of those who keep plants in 
rooms, and have small flower gardens^ 
in or near towns or cities. The author 
flatters himself that it will also be found 
useful to the public at large; as it con- 
tains many valuable hints, showing the 
best method of propagating the different 
kinds of plants herein treated of. 



^t't- 



TREATISE, &c. 



Hyacinths grown in the open ground. 

The bulbs of Hyacinths are subject to 
a disease, or corruption of the sap which 
occasions the destruction of so many., 
that the amateur is disgusted and tempt- 
ed to abandon, entirely, the cultivation of 
this flower, from the small hope he enter- 
tains of evtT seeing his endeavours crown- 
ed with success. 

Without giving himself the trouble to 
examine the probability of his opinion; 
he takes it for granted the climate of 
Holland alone is favourable to the culture 
of Hyacinths. But 1 trust I shall be 
able to undeceive him by the observations 
and rules 1 shall lay down; and I beg 



leave to assure him that if he will impli- 
citly adhere to the following directions, he 
can bring them to perfection, not only to 
equal, but to vie with those raised in Hal* 
land, both as to strength and beauty— 
nay, surpass them. 

The disease incident to Hyacinths I have 
already observed is a putrefaction of the 
juices; the occasion of it may be attri- 
buted to the three following causes: 

1 . Want of good compost. 

2. Too great moisture, and 

3. A want of due perspiratlom 

Compost or Soil, 

I SHALi. first lay down a rule for pre- 
parinia: th<* proper soil or compost, most 
adapted to Hyacinths; not with an idea 
of its being the only proper one, and no 
other. But to give the amateur a rule by 
which he may make the soil of his garden 
approach as near as possible to the com- 
post I am about to describe, in which the 
Hyacinths thrive best, viz. 



^. White river or pit sand. 

i. Manure made of leaves well rotted* 

i. Cowdung thoroughly rotted, and 

i. Old tanners' bark. 

(The bark must be that which has been 
used by tanners, and laid in a heap at 
least one year, that all the heat may 
be exhausted.) 

Tht^se materials should be well mixed 
together, and frequently turned, one year 
before they are used. 

Those who have a heavy soil and can- 
not with case procure such materials as 
sand and rotted leaves, may supply the 
deficiency by mixing one-fourth of their 
soil with one-fourth rotten tan. And those 
who may want tan, may increase the pro- 
portion of sand or of rotten leaves, either 
of these articles may supply the deficiency 
of the other two. 

Observe to proportion the quantity 
of these light materials according to the 
strength or lightness of your soil. The 
heavier or stronger it is the less cow 
manure you must use. 



8 

Having prepared a spot in your garden 
after the foregoing manner, you may plant 
thereon greens^ during the summer, beans 
in preference, the last serve best to mix 
and unite the difft rrnt materials, and there- 
by form a natural soil; it is necessary to 
be informed, that all composts that are not 
well mixed, are of little or no use in gar- 
dening. 

Moisture or weU 

Wet or damp being the most destructive 
incident that can happen to Hyacinths, 
great care should be taken to protect them 
from it, by choosing the most elevated spot 
in your garden — if it is surrounded at 
a distance with a shallow trench, so 
much the better. The bed wherein you 
intend to plant your Hyacinths should 
be raised seven or eight inches above 
the level of the garden. Do not imagine 
that this precaution is useless. The idea in 
America, and other places, that they have 
little or nothing to fear from damp, be- 



9 

cause those countries are more elevated 
and lie drier than Holland, is an opinion 
too prevalent, and too much dissemi- 
nated among amateurs, and which occa- 
sion a loss to them of many bulbs. In all 
the treatises which have appeared on the 
cultivation of Hyacinths, there is no 
observation, (or at least very superficial 
ones,) on this important circumstance, 
damp. 

Let me undeceive them, damps and mois- 
tures are more detrimental in those coun- 
tries than in Holland. The truth is. th^ soil 
being pn^pared as I have already pointed 
out, is very light, consequently more dis- 
posed to absorb, those rains and snows 
which fall, from November to March, par- 
ticularly effects these beds; and the paths 
around them, being more close and com- 
pact than they are in Holland, the mois- 
ture cannot be absorbed by them so quick, 
but remains upon the bed and contributes 
to render them so wet that they absolute- 
ly become mud to the depth of eight to 
twelve inches. 



10 

The bulbs having at this season push- 
ed out their roots to the depth of sixteen 
or twenty inches^ their extremities be- 
come immersed continually in water, 
this added to the little perspiration the ve- 
getable world undergoes during the winter 
months, causes the roots to putrify, and 
communicates a disease to the bulbs which 
totally destroys them, or at least renders 
the flower poor and small. The bulbs be- 
come thin, and when taken up they are 
found shrivelled, and all in scales. 

To prevent this misfortune as much 
as possible I would advise amateurs 
in case of heavy ruins or melting snows, 
to give a vent to them, by making 
small descents to drain them or rather 
to have small trenches made round 
the beds as I have already mentioned, 
and to be particularly careful to raise the 
beds at least seven or eight inches above 
the common paths. 



11 



Evaporation. 

The bulbs of Hyacinths are succulent 
and full of sap, and for want of due 
evaporation easily putrify. To prove 
the bulbs abound with rich juices, take 
eight or ten roots at the time of taking 
them up, they will perhaps weigh one 
pound, three weeks after having lain on 
the shelves you will find they will only 
weigh twelve ounces — they evaporated one- 
fourth part in that space of time. 

These vapours being condensed either in 
the room, or in deep drawers, in which 
they may be laid to dry one upon the other, 
will have the same pernicious effect as the 
wet and moisture in the ground would have; 
when it is not drained off. 

The place destined for the reception of 
the bulbs after taking them up, should be 
very dry. For this reason, greenhouses, 
which face the south, are preferable to 
any other place. 

The wind )ws should be open on all sides, 
that the air may have a free passage. 



13 

durini; the first three weeks after the bulbs ^ 

have been there deposited. After this in- i 

tervaJ, part of the windows only should \ 

remain open, except the weatli^r be j 

cloudy, at which time they ought to be ] 

closely shut, morning and evening. ! 

Every precaution should to be taken to ^ 

prevent the humid vapours arising from the ; 

bulbs settling on them, which occasions pu- j 

trefaction; for this reason rooms or gar- > 

rets which are lined with wainscoat, I 

or have wooden partitions, or that are built j 

entirely of wood are prcferrable to walls j 

of stone, brick, or plaster. It seems that •; 

stone walls, particularly, attract the humid J 

and moist vapours, for if the weather t 

remain cloudy for two or three days j 

those walls appear covered with mois- \ 

ture, which scarcely ever happen to those ^ 

of wood. In the month of Septem- "> 

ber, the sap in the bulbs begin to \ 

move, and it then becomes necessary to '^. 
pay particular attention to them; for 
at this period they are most subject to 
putrefaction, by inhaling the vapours 



.^ 



13 

which they have evaport^d in the months 
of July and August, if proper care has 
not been taken to keep them in dry and 
airy rooms. 

This remark will appear to many people 
absurd and ridiculous, but experience has 
taught me the truth of it, and the consi- 
derable losses 1 have sustained, have con- 
firmed it. 

Amateurs, who have had experience, to 
pr?vent putrefaction taking place, examine 
with attention each bulb before they lay 
them on the drying shelves, and ri'ject, 
without exception, all those that are the 
least decayed or unsound. This caution 
they renew prior to their being replanted, ta 
prevent, as much as possible, infection. 

It is much preferable to place the bulbs 
on shelves separately, and distinguish the 
different sorts by placing small slips ot 
wood with marks on them, than to put them 
in small deep drawers, whose depth pre- 
vents, the air from having a free circu- 
lation through them; you must carefully 
observe to turn the bulbs from time to 

2 



.14 

time, during the first two or three weeks 
after having laid thern on the shelves, to 
facilitate the evaporation, and not lay 
them on their hase but on their sides, 
otherwise the moisture accumulates, and 
attaches itself more easily between the 
old roots, which to get rid of, is attended 
with much difficulty, and if it remains it 
occasions them to perish for want of eva- 
poration. 

To be convinced of the necessity of 
following the rules mentioned, is very 
easy, by examining the rooms in which 
you have deposited the bulbs, for the first 
two or three days. On your entrance into 
them in the morning after having breri 
closely shut during the night, you will per- 
ceive a very strong smell, and if the col- 
lection is considerable, the room will be 
quite heated by the exhalations arising 
fr(»m the bulbs, which go ofi* as soon as 
the air has a free circulation. 

As my remarks are entirely designed 
for the use of amateurs I have dwelt on 
such observations as 1 deemed most es- 



15 

sential, and will endeavour to explain, 
in as few words as possible, what remains 
to be done. 

The best season for importing bulbs from 
Holland are the months of August and 
September, at that time they have under- 
gone their proper evaporation, and can best 
endure carriage. 



Planting* 

When the soil of your garden is very 
dry and elevated, you may plant your bulbs 
seven or eight inches deep, but if you pre- 
fer a strong and vigorous flower to a large 
and well nourished bulb, five or six 
inches is sufficient. Those who have gar- 
dens in towns, where a descent is prac- 
ticable, and where the air is more load- 
ed with vapours, should plant them only 
five or six inches deep. 

Suffice to say, that the deeper your 
soil permits you to plant them, the whole- 
somer and stronger will be your bulbs. 



Id 

But in no soil wliatcver you oujrht to ex- j 
ceed eight inches in depth, l^he best sea- 
son for planting Hyacintlis is from the ' 
20th of October to the £Oth of November. i 



Frost, Sfc. 

FuosT is detrimental in proportion as 
it approaches the bulbs, so that the in- 
tensity thereof ought to be your guide in 
respect to covering them at this time. From 
two to four inches of tan laid over them will 
be sufficient in a common winter. Those 
who have bulbs of great value, may add 
planks of wood when the frost is very in- 
tense. 

You must take care ilot to cover them 
too much, especially with leaves. These 
coverings repulse the vapours which 
arise from the ground, (although frozen,) 
and prevents the air from penetrating it, 
and consequently putrifying the bulbs. 
A frost which penetrates only three or 
four inches in depth is preferred to too mild 
a winter, or to the inconvenience sustained 



17 

by too much rovering. Those who have col- 
lections of great value, tie up the flower 
stalks to small sticks, and put an awning so 
as to throw a shade over tliem, during the 
greatest heat of the sun, thereby pre- 
serving the beauty of the flower, especially 
those which are of a deep red colour. 
At the same time tliey are cautious not 
to extend the awning over the whole 
bed, and to use it from nine o'clock, in 
the morning, till six in the evening. 
Whatever contributes to increase the 
growth of the stalk and leaves, weakens 
the bulb and renders it poor and insignifi- 
cant. 

Taking them out of ground* 

The time for taking tliem up, is when 
the leaves have lost their verdure and begin 
to wither. If your garden is very much 
elevated, you may indeed wait till they are 
entirely dry and the leaves withered, but 
then you must be certain you have nothing 
to fear from the humidity of your ground. 
2* 



is 

The genera* custom with the Dutch flo- 
rist is to put them in the earth again as 
soon as they have stripped them of their 
leaves, who practice the following me- 
thod. 

After they take up the bulbs they 
make the beds quite even, then cutting off 
the leaves, but not too close, and leaving on 
the roots, they lay the bulbs on their sides 
in regular rows, so that they just touch, 
taking care to lay them in a south as- 
pect; they cover them with fine earth 
about one inch deep, which raises them 
three or four inches above tlie surface 
of the beds. In this situation they remain 
three weeks, taking care to renew the 
mould from time to time, at end of that 
period they take up tlie bulbs, cleanse 
them, take off the offsets and place them or 
their proper shelves. This method is 
highly useful and very favourable to 
evaporation, it renders the bulbs very dry 
and compact, consequently more adapted 
for carriage; it likewise prevents their be- 
ing mouldy or decaying. 



i9 

The above method is alone practicable in 
a soil that is light and dry, and that has 
been well turned, fWhere the soil is strong 
deep and moist, it would be very danger- 
ous to follow this method.) 

Those who possess the favourable soil 
mentioned, may take up their bulbs as 
soon as the leaves begin to grow yellowj 
on the contrary those who are not so 
fortunate, must wait till the leaves have 
entirely lost their verdure and are with- 
ered. 

If the rules laid down in this small trea- 
tise, be implicitly followed and put into prac- 
tice, I am convinced, that amateurs will 
find the good effect, and that this flower 
%vill succeed in any country better than it 
lifis hitherto done. And he may flatter him- 
self with some reason, if he pays proper 
attention, and proceed with perseverance^ 
that he may bring his Hyacinths to as 
great perfection as they are in H»*llandj 
the experiment will without doubt, cost 
him at first some bulbs, but that is inevi- 
table. In Holland, where the cultivation 



20 

of this flower is attended with the most 
unremitting care and attention.* they have 
not yet discovered the secret of saving 
every one. Notwithstanding the expe- 
rience of many years the Hyacinth still 
remains a very difficult flower to culti- 
vate, this difficulty arises in some measure 
from too great moisture. 

Hyacinths must not be planted again 
in the same soil, at least for two or 
three years, but the ground should be 
cultivated with other plants during that 
time, and always mixed the year before 
planting with some old cowdung, especi- 
ally when the soil is light or sandy, as the 
Hyacinths are very fond of such manure. 

Trials and experience of many years 
have brought the Dutch to a tolerable 
degree of knowledge in the culture of this 
flower; my intention in writing the forego- 
ing rules is only to give a hint to amateurs, 
what way they may turn their attention to 
improve the culture of Hyacinths; many 
soils may be found in America, with a little 
additional compost, which may perfectly 
answer the desired effect. 



^1 



Hyacinths and JVarcissus for glasses. 

Hyacinths and Narcissus, for ,^lasses, 
should be placed on the glasses the latter 
part of October, or any time in November, 
Fill the glasses with clear water, so as to 
be about one-fourth of an inch aboye the 
bottom of the bulb, whence the fibres pro- 
ceed: for, if the roots are immersed in w^a- 
ter more than one-fourth of an inch, it has 
a tendency to injure the bulbs, and fre- 
quently causes them to decay before the 
flowers, appear. 

With respect to the w^ater, it should be 
^ changed constantly twice a week, the best 
method of doing it is as follows:— Place the 
fingers over the root, to keep it close to the 
glass, and pour out the water; then fill it 
half full, holding the root as before, and sha- 
king the glass gently, in order to wash both 
the roots and the glass. This done, pour 
that out, and fill it witli clear water, whi( h 
has stood in the room, in a bottle for that 
purpose, till it has acquired an equal degree 



of warmth as that which was before in the 
glass; for I find, that, by pouring cold wa- 
ter into the glasses, the fibres of the roots 
are thereby checked, and never do so well 
as when the water is warm in proportion 
to the heat of the room. If it be not con- 
venient to heat tlie water in the room, you 
may add one point of boiling water to three 
quarts of cold, which will impart to it a 
proper degree of heat, and will keep the 
plants in a growing state, and they will 
blossom in the greatest perfection. If clear 
rain water can be procured, it is better 
than hard water; but which ever, is first 
used should be continued. 

When the roots are first placed in the 
glasses, they should be kept in a cold room 
where there is no fire, and exposed to the 
air as much as possible^ (but not to the 
draft of a door or windaw,) wljen it is not 
frosty. They should be kept in the cold 
room till the fibres rearh half way down 
the glasses, and then they may be removed 
into a warm room where there is a fire, 
and placed in a sunny window. If they 



23 

are far from the light, they are drawn up 
weak, and appear yellow and sickly. If 
they are wanted to he placed in any other 
part of the room, they should be continued 
at the window till they are in bloom^ and 
when in bloom, the water should not be 
changed, but the glasses should be supplied 
with water as it evaporates with the heat 
of the room. The roots also imbibe more 
water, when in bloom, than at any other 
period, and consequently need more attend- 
an6>/- If they are then neglected, it weak- 
ens and checks the plants more than at any 
other period. 

When the bloom is faded, take the roots 
out of the glasses, and plant them in the 
following manner, viz. make a hole in a dry 
and airy part of the garden about three 
inches deep, and fill it with sand, placing 
the roots in it almost close t<»gether, and 
cover them with sand about two inches 
above the crown of the bulb. They are to 
remain in this situation till p^'rfectly ripe, 
(at which linv' the green withers and be- 
comes brown,) then taken up and laid in 



34 

the shade about a fortnight to dry and 
harden. When perfectly dry^ clean them 
from the soil, &c. which adheres to them, 
put them in bags, and keep them in a dry 
room. 

To blow Hyacinths and JYarcissus in Pots.* 

In the first place, it is necessary to be 
provided with pots. Such as are about se- 
ven inches deep, and six over at the top, 
are the best size: or larger pots will be as 
well, with regard to the growth of the 
roots; but the former are the most conve- 
nient. Next procure some rich mould mix- 
ed with one-third part of sand. River 
sand is the best; but if that cannot be pro- 
cured, such as is washed together by the 
rain. If the sand found in beds be used, 
it should be laid in a heap and exposed to 
the sun and air eight or itn days before 
being used; it will then be in good order. 

Let the compost be well mixed and incor- 
porated together, and sifted through a fine 

* Hyacinths grown in pots require a different treatment 
from those grown in the natural ground. 



25 

sieve, or made fine by any other method. 
Having the pots and cpmpost ready, begin 
by placing an oyster-shell, or piece of tile, 
over the hole at the bottom of the pot, to 
drain off the water; then fill the pots with 
the compost, and force the roots into the 
mould, so as that the crown of the bulb 
may be even with the surface, and about 
half an Inch beliw the top or rim of the 
pot: however, they must not be covered. 

Plant three roots in a pot, or more if the 
pots are large. They should be placed 
about two inches distant every way, and 
may be planted close to the edge of the pot 
or not. Put them in the window of a cold 
room where there is no fire, or in a garden- 
frame under glasses, just to preserve them 
from the frost; for the less they are forced, 
the finer they will be. 

In about a w eek alter they are planted, 
if the earth on the top of the pot appear 
rather dry, give them a little water, but not 
before. After being once watered, they 
must be kept moderately moist, and in about 
a fortnight they will have thrown out fibres 

S 



26 

at ^he bottom, about an inch or more in 
length, when they «may be removed into a 
warm room, where tbcu'e is a fire kept, and 
placed in a sunny window; or they may re- 
main in the room or frame longer if they 
are not wanted forward. They must be 
moderately watered every day, when in a 
warm room: but never let the water stand 
in the water-pans under the pots, as it stag- 
nates, and is very pernicious to the tender 
fibres. If managed in this way, they will 
generally blow fine in January, or early in 
February, according to the time they were 
planted, and the manner in which they were 
forced. 

As soon as the bloom is over, they should 
be turned out of the pots (with the bulb en- 
tire) and planted in the open ground, where 
they will increase in size, and ripen. When 
the leaves are withered and become dry, 
take them up and dry th^m in the shade 
for a few days. When thoroughly dry, 
put them in paper bags, and hang them up 
in a dry room, first taking off the offsets; 
then plant them immediately in the bordei's 



S7 

of a sandy soil, and let the. crown of the 
bulb be two inches under the surface. Keep 
the blooming roots dry till October or No- 
yember, when they should be planted in 
beds by themselves, or in bunches in the 
borders, and the crown of the bulb should 
be about four inches below the surface of 
the bed. They will blow very well in the 
ground next year, and tolerably well in 
pots the second year after, but never so 
well as the first time: it is necessary to 
have the largest roots every year, for 
forcing either in glasses or pots. 



Crocuses and Snow-drops, 

Should be planted any time from the 
month of December to January, very thick 
in the pots, and plunged in the ground, or 
k< pt in a frame, merely to keep them from 
frost. They should not be removed to 
a room till very severe frost sets in; be- 
cause, if brought into a room too soon, they 



«8 

arc drawn \veak, and run much to green. 
I find the best way is to take them up in 
bunches out of the garden, and pot them as 
soon as they appear above the surface of 
the ground; and they always blow much 
finer by this method of treatment. 



Lilies of the Valley, 

Should by no means be potted till the 
flower-buds appear; for, it potted before, it 
is uncertain whether one quarter of thera 
will flower. If you have them growing in 
a garden, they should be frequently exa- 
mined in tlie spring, as the flower-buds are 
easily perceived a considerable time before 
they flower. Take them up carefully with 
a knife, with as much earth as possible 
about them, and plant them thick in pots or 
boxos. They must be kept moderately 
moist, and they will blow in perfection. 

When piace3 in a room, the window 
should never be opened against them, as 
the draft is pernicious to their welfare. 



29 

When the window is opened for any consi- 
derable length of limtf^, the plants should be 
removed to a distance from it; and when 
the bloom is over, they should be planted 
out in the borders, or plunged in the ground 
in pots, &c. They seldom blow well if pot- 
ted before the green is up; if potted before, 
you can see the flower-buds. The best time 
for doing it is from January to March. 
They do well in any common garden- 
mould, as each crown blows but once in 
three years. 



Sweet or due Van Thai Tulips^ 

Should always be potted in the same 
compost as hyacinths, &c. but they do not 
require such large pots. They must have 
the same treatment, and be potted at tlve 
same time as hyacinths, narcissus, &c. 



r,* 



.o 



30 



Guernsey LilieH^ 

Should be planted in pots as small as 
you please: they do best in compost, that 
is, half sand and half mould, or in sand 
only. 



RanunculusseSf 

Should be jdanted in pots which arc 
about nine inches deep, and seven inches 
over. The compost proper for them is a 
fresh and rather sandy loam, mixed with a 
little rotten dung, but very little. The 
mould thrown up in heaps by moles, in 
a fresh loamy soil, is preferable to any; if 
of a red color, the better. The Scarlet 
Turban should be planted in November. 
Fill the pots with the compost to the brim; 
then take the root between the finger and 
thumb, and thrust it into the mould about 
half an inch below the surface, which is the 
proper depth at which they should then be 
plunged in the ground, (for they never do 



31 

well in pots, if they are not plunged) in a 
warm sunny situation, to forward tbera; but 
they must not be put under glasses, as th^^y 
never flower well if forced, and sometimes^ 
in that case, not at all. 1 find the best way 
lo obtain them in perfection in pots is to 
plant ihera in a warm sunny situation in the 
natural ground, and defended from very se- 
vere frost by placing hoops and mats over 
them; but they must not be covered except 
the frost is severe, as the covering weakens 
them if continued long. When it is neces- 
sary to cover them, these mats should be 
taken off while the sun shines on them, and 
covered again when it goes off. Just as the 
blossom begins to expand, is the best timet 
to pot them. Take them up with as much 
earth about them as possible, and plant three 
or four roots in each pot, placing them in 
a room or frame, under glass* s; but they 
must be watered every day, and kept quite 
wet, (as they thrive in moisture) and they 
will bloom in the greatest perfection, aufl 
continue in beauty a long time. 



33 

The Variegated or Persian Ranuvculus 
should not be planted till the latter end of 
February, or the b' ginning of March, If 
hard frost should set in a few days after the 
roots are planted, before they have time to 
vegetate, they should be slightly covered 
with fern, straw, &c. but must not be con- 
tinued longer covered than the frost lasts. 
The roots being wet after they are planted, 
are in more danger of being hurt by frost 
before they vegetate than afte r vegetation 
has actually taken place, when they may be 
potted and treated exactly in the same man- 
ner as the Turban. 

The method of propagating the plants 
is by parting the roots, and by seed. The 
method of raising them by seed is as fol- 
lows: — In the beginning of April provide 
some boxes, next get some fine rich sandy 
loam well sifted and broken, and carefully 
pick out the worms, if it contains any; fill 
the boxes, and lay a thin stratum of dung 
about four inches below the surface. Make 
the surface of the mould as even as possi- 
ble: strew the seed over it rather thick, on 



33 

which throw some of the finest mould, 
enough just barely to cover it; for if it 
be covered wiore than one-eighth of an 
inch, it will never vegetate. The boxes 
should be placed where they will have the 
influence of the morning sun till about nine 
o'clock, but not longer; and they should 
remain in this situation till the green covers 
the mould, when they may, by degrees, 
have more sun. However, they must not 
be placed in a very hot situation, but they 
must be constantly watered, and never suf- 
fered to get dry. Kt^ep them always clear 
from weeds; the best way to destroy which 
is to cut them off close to the surface with a 
pair of scissors, when very young, as pull- 
ing them up disturbs the seeds, and retards 
their vegetation. 

Wi»rms being very destructive to the 
young plants, it is a good method to water 
the mould with a decoction of the leaves or 
branches of the walnut-tree, or with salt 
water before being put into the boxes, and 
they must be waten d with a pot of clean 
water after, and moderately dried. When 



S4 

the .e^reen of the plants is dried up, they 
may be taken up by means of a small three- 
pronged grain fork, (such as is used at ta- 
ble,) and carefully separated from stones, 
&c. dried in the shade, put in paper- bags, 
and kt^pt dry till March, when they may be 
planted in the same manner as the large 
roots, except they should not be planted 
more than an inch and a quarter deep, 
which is the proper depth, and they will 
blow fine the second year. Nature points 
out the proper depth at which to plant these 
routs; fi)r if planted too deep or too shal- 
low, a new root is formed at the proper 
depth, which considerably weakens the 
plant. 



dnemonies, 

May be planted in October, November, 
or March, as they are hardier than the Per- 
sian Ranunculus, and may be potted and 
managed in the same manner as the Scar- 
let I urban Ranunculus, only planted rather 
deeper. The Single Anemonie, or Wind 



35 

Flower, may be raised in great variety 
from seed, which should be sown in beds 
four feet wide, in March, and covered the 
same depth as the Ranunculus seed, or a 
little deeper, but not more than an eighth 
of an inch. A mat should be placed over 
it, through which it should bo watered till 
the seed is fairly up, then exposed to the 
sun by degrees, and kept constantly moist 
by frequent w^aterings: by these means 
they will bloom the same season, and you 
may probably obtain some fine new double 
flow^ers, which should be marked, and se- 
parated from the others. The double sorts 
are increased by parting the roots; for the 
old roots, when come to their full size^ be* 
come hollow, and separate naturally. 



Single and Double JonquilSf 

Should be planted, whether in the opeu 
ground or in pots, any time from October 
to January. The pots for this purpose 
should be the same size as those used for 



36 

hyacinths. Plant six or eij^ht roots in a 
pot in the hyacinth compost, or in any 
lij2:ht rich garden-mouhl mixed with a little 
dung. But, in order to have them in per- 
fection in pots, it is best to take them up in 
bunches, provided they have been in the 
ground long enough to be grown so; if 
they were planted in the autumn, take 
them up singly: the proper time for doing 
this is when they first show flower; remove 
them into a warm room, give them plenty 
of water, and they will blow very fine. 

When the bloom is over, they should be 
turned out of the pots, and planted in the 
garden, to remain there till the foliage be- 
comes witliered and dry, when they may be 
taken up and treated.the same as hyacinths. 
But it is best to let them remain in the 
ground three years before taken up, as they 
will rise in large bunches for potting, and 
always bloom stronger. 



37 



White Lilies 

Are beautiful sweet plants for rooms. If 
you have them growing in a garden, they 
may be taken up in large bunches, and 
planted in large pots, in which they will 
thrive remarkably well. The best time for 
taking them up is in January or February. 
Keep them in a warm room in a sunny win- 
dow; constantly supply them with water^ 
and they will blossom very fine. When the 
bloom is over, they should be turned out of 
the pots, and planted in the borders again, 
each root separately, and they will be in 
good order for forcing the second or third 
year after. 

All the different sorts of Martagon or 
Turn Cap Lilies will do to force equally as 
well as the White. Any good common 
garden-mould is proper for potting them in. 
They are all ^opagated by dividing the 
offsets from the old roots, and planting 
them in the borders. 



38 



Pinks and Carnation^f 

FoH forcing, should be potted in October. 
Fine young plants, raised in the summer, 
are to be preferred. They should be potted 
in light rich mould, and must be dt f« nded 
from hard frost and rains^ by placing them 
in a garden-frame, if convenient,' or other- 
wise, when there is danger of much rain, 
lay them down on their sides in a warm 
situation, as the wet often kills the Car- 
nation?^. Pinks are hardier than Carna- 
tions; but if both are kept rather dry, the 
better during the winter. You may re- 
move them into a warm room, in January 
or February, and give them plenty of wa- 
ter according to the heat of the room. If 
they are kept in a very warm room, they 
will require water every day. By attend- 
ing to these instructions, jou will obtain 
them in perfection, particularly the Carna- 
tions, a month or six weeks before those 
n the open ground. 



89 

The method of propagating them is hf 
layers or pipings. 

By Layers. 



Carnation^s are generally increased by 
this method. When the pl< nts are in bloom^ 
and the young shoots of sufficient length, 
choose the longest and vStrongest of them, 
and such as may be bent dovt n to the earth: 
the others may be piped. Begin by strip- 
ping or cutting off the Iraves, from the bot- 
tom of the shoot upwards to the third joint 
from the heart, when you should be provi- 
ded with a sharp penknife, and small crooks 
of wood or fern. Such as may be cut out 
of an old birch broom answer very well 
for the purpose. The top of each layer 
should be cut off to about an inch and a 
half from the heart; then holding the layer 
between the finger and thumb, make the in- 
cision by entering the knife in a sloping 
idirection about an eighth of an inch below 
the fourth joint, bringing it through the 



40 

ini'ldle of the joint, and a quarter of au 
inch above it. The small piece or tongue 
that is left below the fourth joint, after the 
incision is made, should be cut off close to 
the joint. Then, having some fine rich 
sandy mould ready, put some round the 
root, that the layers may be the more easi- 
ly laid down, without breaking or crack- 
ing them; after which, fix the layers in the 
mould with the incision open about half an 
inch under the surface, and give them a lit- 
tle water, which should be done every dry 
day. They generally strike good roots in 
about six weeks, and are then fit to be 
taken off, and planted in small pots or bor- 
ders. The mould for potting them in shr^uld 
be rich and light; and if any of the layers 
be accidentally broken off, or if there are 
any on the plant not low enough to be laid, 
they may be piped, as many of the sorts 
grow well by this method. 



41 



By Pipings. 

Pinks are generally propagated by this 
method from their striking so easily, and 
from its being much less trouble to pipe 
them. 

In the first place, dig a hole about two 
feet in depth and in lengthy and in breadth 
according to the quantity to be piped. This 
bed should be in the warmest situation. 
Fill it with long dung or straw, (the for- 
mer is the best:) let it be well trodden, and 
made level with the surface of the garden; 
or if it be a few inches higher, it will not 
be the worse. Then get some good mould, 
mixed with a little rotten dung, which, be- 
ing well sifted through a fine sieve, lay six 
or eight inches thick over the bed, making 
the surface as even as possible: then pull 
off some of the stronger young shoots from 
the old roots, such as have about four or 
five joints. Strip the leaves off carefully 
to the third or fourth joint, shortening the 
top of the pipings to about an inch and a 

4'K= 



42 i 

quarter from the heart; then cut it off at ^ 
the fou?*th joint, passin.e: the knife, exactly 
through the middle of the joint, and it is 
fi)ifshed, I'hen proceed to plant them as j 
follows. Cap or other glasses should be 
provided; small glasses under ten inches in j 
dia ueter are the best. Water the earth a j 
little, before you plant the pipings, having 
marked the exact situation of the glass on I 
the bed by pressing it on the surface. Take j 
the pipings one by one, and force them into 
the earth about half an inch, or rather \ j 
more, according to the strength of the pip- ^ 
ing, and about an inch distant from each I 
other; then give them a little water to set- j 
tie the earth about them, and place the ! 
glass close over them. They must be wa- \ 
tered a little every day, the glasses kept } 
close, and never shaded from the sun. ' 
Continue to keep the glasses close over • 
them for about a month, by which time ^ 
they will nearly all have taken root. The \ 
glasses should then be taken off, tin plants 
exposed to the sun and air, and kept moist 
by frequent waterings, if the weather be ' 



43 

dry. In about a fortnight after the glasses 
are taken off, they should be planted off 
into beds, about six inches distant from 
earh other, or they may be planted in beds, 
to remain to flower, about nine inches dis- 
tant. 



Roses. 

The sorts which answer best for forcing 
are the Common Province, White Pro- 
vince or Rose Unique, and the Moss. They 
all do remarkably well in pots. 

Jo flower them well in rooms or hot- 
houses, they should be potted in the au- 
tumn as soon as the leaves are off. How- 
ever, they should not be forced till the se- 
cond year, but they will blow in pots in the 
gr )und, though not so fine. 

They must be kept moist during the 
drought of summer, to make them gro\\ as 
strcmg as possible, After they have had ^ne 
summer^s growth in p'»ts, they will he in 
goo i order for forcing, and may be put 
into a room in the beginning of January, 



44 

placed in a sunny window, and well wa- 
tered. If they are forced in a hot-house, 
there must be a quantity of young plants 
potted every year for a succession, as they 
will not force two years following. The 
Damask and Maidens-Blush Roses will 
force, but not so well as the sorts before 
mentioned. The Rose Demaux and Pom- 
pone may be planted in pots, and plunged 
in tlie ground, the same as the other sorts, 
and may be taken into the room when they 
shew flower, as they do not force well. 
Small insects, commonly called the green 
fly, which appear on the tops of the young 
shoots and flower-buds, are very destruc- 
tive to the roses, and, if not destroyed, to- 
tally spoil the flower-buds, and kill the tops 
of the young shoots. They may be des- 
troyed by fumigating them with tobacco. 
If you are not provided with a fumigating 
bellows, 1 find it answers quite as well to 
put the tobacco in a small flower-pot with 
a fiery coal, and blow it with a common 
bellows. If the plants are kept in rooms 
it may be done in any back place, as the 



45 

smell of the smoke is very disagreeable 
for some time after in the room. Place the 
tobacco on the floor^ and the plants all 
round it, and blow it continually till the 
tobacco is consumed. The smoke should 
be confined where the plants are for three 
or four hours, if possible, and it will entire- 
ly destroy those insects. 

All plants kept in rooms should be serv- 
ed in this manner as soon as any insects 
appear. Before the plants are taken into 
the rooms again, about two inches of the 
mould at the top of the pots should be ta- 
ken off, and some fresh rich soil put in the 
place of it; as, by the fumigation, many of 
the insects fall off on the mould almost life- 
less, but will sometimes recover and get on 
the plants again if the earth on the top be 
not changed. 

The plants should have a good watering 
of clear water from a watering-pot with the 
rose on, all over their heads, in order to 
wash them, and to take off the smell of the 
tobacco before being taken into the room. 
Let this be done on a fine warm dav, as 



46 

taking the plants out of a room in a cold 
day, and watering them with cold water, 
checks them very materially. If the water 
be just luke-warm, it will be much better, 
and the plants will not be checked. Where 
roses art' forced in a hot-house, they should 
be plunged in the tan, and fumigated every 
month. 

'I here is another insect which infests 
roses, that cannot be d^^stroyed by fumi- 
gating, and are easily discovered; for wh^re- 
ever they are, the Iraf of tlie plant is rurl- 
ed. They should be picked off and crushed 
to d'^ath, or in a few days they will destroy 
every one of the flf»^ver-buds. 

The af »re-rn4'ntinned R(»ses are all in- 
creased by layers and suckers from the old 
roots. Th«» young shoots should be laid in 
summer, and t;ut in the same manner as 
carnations, or twisted, and laid and forked 
down about three inches deep. They will 
be w^'ll rooted by the autumn, and may then 
be taken off and potted or planted in beds. 
The surkors should be carefully tak n off 
with a spade from the old roots in autumn, 



47 

Stnd treated in the same manner as the 

lajt-rs. 

The China or Monthly Rose is a line 
plant for a room, on account of its bloom- 
ing the greater part of the winter, Thest 
should be fresh potted in the autumn in 
large pots, according to the size of the 
plants; and the mould should be very rich 
and light. Ihey must be removed into 
rooms when the frost c«)mes on. No plant 
requires more fumigating than this. They 
thrive remarkably well if planted under a 
south wall, and nailed up; they grow to a 
great height, and make a beautiful appear- 
ance during the principal part of the sum- 
mer, and latH in autumn. 

These plants are propagated by cuttings. 
Any part of the young branches in spring 
or summer being taken off at the joint and 
planted in pots or in the ground, and co- 
vered with a glass, readily strike root, and 
may be potted as soon as they are struck, 
or planted in a border. 



4« 



On Tuberoses. 

The Double and Single Tuberoses are 
beautiful sweet-scented plants^ and may be 
brought to perfection with very little trou- 
ble. They should be planted in April or 
May. Provide some fine, light, rich com- 
jiost, and middle sized pots, planting one 
root in the centre of each pot. Many peo- 
ple divest them of the offsets, which is a 
bad practice: for* instead of strengthening 
the roots, it weakens them. The crown of 
the root must be .only just covered with 
mouldy and if not covered at all, the plant 
will not be the worse for it. 

This beautiful plant always thrives bet- 
ter, and blossoms earlier, if indulged with 
a hot-bed. For those who force cucumbers 
or melons, and have but a few roots, it will 
be a good plan to plunge the pots to the 
rims at the back or sides of the bed, to for- 
ward them; but if you have a large quan- 
tity of roots, they should have a slight hot- 
bed made for them, and they well deserve 



49 

it. A bed made for a one-light frame will 
contain a great qviantity of plants; if it be 
two feet and a half in height, it will b^- vsuf- 
ficient At this season, about six inches of 
old tan, fine mould or sawdust, must be 
placed on the bed, to plunge the pots in, 
which may be put as close together as pos- 
sible, or so as to fill the bed. They will 
require a little water two or three days 
after being planted, but it must be used 
very sparingly till the foliage on the top 
is grown two inches in length, then they 
must be kept moderately moist. 4ir should 
be admitted every day, if the weather be at 
all favorable, by letting up the light at the 
back of the frame, or pushing it down a 
little; but this light must be kept close every 
night. When the flower-stalks appj^ar, the 
plants should have more air, by drawing 
thi light half off, or yen may take it en- 
tirely off in fine weather, while the sun 
shines on th< m: if the frame be shallow, 
the flower-stalks will reach the glass h( fore 
they !dow. When this happens to be tho 
case, the frame may be raised, by placing a 

5 



50 

brick or stone at each corner of the frame, 
laying boards or straw round the top of 
the bed to keep the mould up, and to pre- 
vent the air from being drawn in, which 
would prove injurious. When the plants 
are in bloom, th^y may be removed where 
wanted, either to adorn the warm conspi- 
cuous part of the garden, or the apart- 
ments of the house, still keeping them well 
supplied with water, as they will require 
more when not plunged. 

These flowers may be grown equally 
successful in hot-houses, plunged in the 
bark-bed, or kept in front of the house on 
the flue, but the former method is to be 
preferred: or they may be blown in perfec- 
tion in a room or green-house, potted ex- 
actly the same as for hot-beds; but they 
will require more water, and, if planted at 
the same time, will succeed, and be in their 
beauty when the others are gone. Those 
grown in beds or hot-houses may be re- 
moved to any warm sunny apartment of 
the house when the flower-stems are about 
six inches in length, which will keep them 



5i 

back; and by these means you will have 
a succession, which is very desirable. The 
windows may be opened, without detriment 
to the plants, in fine weather; in fact, it is 
necessary to give them air frequently, as it 
strengthens the bloom. The pots should 
always be removed a little distance from 
the window, out of the draft, when it is 
opened, or it will certainly destroy them. 

These plants are increased by offsets, 
which may be taken off after the plants 
have done flowering and the green is dried. 
These must be buried in dry sand in win- 
ter, and planted in the natural ground in a 
warm situation at the beginning of April. 



^ 



52 



Violets. 



To have the different sorts of Double 
Violets in porfertion, they .should be potted 
in the summer in middh -sized pots, or 
planted in boxes. The pots may be plung- 
ed in the ground in a shaded situation dur- 
ing the summer. The boxes should like- 
wise be kept in the same situation. They 
should be re-plunged in a sunny situation 
in the autumn, to remain there to blow; 
for they do not blossom well, if taken into 
rooms before the blossom appears. They 
bear planting very well, and may be taken 
up out of the ground and potted when in 
full bloom, if it be more convenient; but 
they do not remain so long in bloom. 

The JVeapolitan ViokU which is far supe- 
rior to any other for its beautiful scent 
and long continuance in bloom, answers re- 
markably well if planted on an old cucum- 
ber bed. The plants must be about six inclies 
distant from each other; if leaf- mould can 
be easily procured to plant them in, it is to 



93 

be preferred to any other.* The flowers 
of this violet being so uncommonly sweet, 
the insects are particularly fond of themj 
and, if not attended to, they will destroy 
every one of them. I find the best way 
to counteract this is to place slices of car- 
rot or turnip round the pots, boxes, &c. as 
they will eat those in preference to any 
thinj? else, and conceal themselves under 
them during the day. Thus, by turning over 
these pieces every morning, they may be 
discovered and consequently destroyed. 

Violets are easily propagated by divid- 
ing the roots in autumn or spring. 



Persian Iris. 

The Persian Iris is a beautiful flower, 
and will blow on glavsses, like the hyacinth, 
narcissus, &c. but they will blow much 
stronger in small pots of sand, or sandy 

* What is here called leaf-mould is a compost made from 
leaves raked up in the autumn^ and laid in a heap till per- 
fectly rotten. 

5* 



54 

1oam# putting three plants in each pot. 
They are managed in a way exactly si* 
milar to the hyacinth. 

A few pots or glasses of these plants will 
scent a large apartment. They succeed 
very well in the natural ground, in a dry 
situation, and sandy soil. 

They are propagated by dividing the off- 
sets from the old roots. 



Mignonnette^ 

Should be sown thick in pots, or boxes,^ 
at any time of the year, and transplanted 
when in rough leaf, either into pots filled 
with light rich mould, (four plants to a 
pot,) or in boxes, (the plants to be two 
inches apart) in the same kind of compost. 
It must be kept in a sunny window, dur- 
ing the winter, and constantly supplied with 
water, keeping it moderately moist. In 
the summer it may be kept outside of the 
window. 



ON 

(GREENHOUSE PLANTS, 



The Verbena Trifoliata^ or Sweet Vervain, 

Is a beautiful plant for rooms, particu- 
larly in the summer. However, it loses 
its leaves generally about December, when 
many people throw it away, thinking it is 
dead; but if it be cut bark rather short, 
and shifted into a larger pot, in good rich 
mould, as soon as the leaves fall off, it 
will break ag an immediately, form a fine 
green plant, and retain its leaves after till 
next winter. 

This plant will live in the open ground; 
but the root should be covered with muck, 
saw^dust, ashes, or any thing most con- 
venient, to keep the frost a little from the 
root. If the frost kill it to the ground, 



56 

which it generally does, unless in a very 
warm situation, it may be cut off close to 
the ground in April, when it will soon 
break, and grow very strong. It is very 
easily raised from the slips or cuttings of 
the young wood in the summer. Plant 
them in a large pot; plunge the pot to the 
rim in a hot situation, and place a glass 
over them, making it air-proof. Give them 
water every morning, and they will strike 
root in about three weeks or a month, 
when they may be put singly into small 
pots.^ 



The Fiishia Coccineaf 

Is a very handsome plant, and blossoms 
very fine if managed in the following man- 
ner: — 

It requires a large sized pot, and should 
be potted in strong rich mould. It also 
requires a good deal of water, and always 
thrives best if plunged in rather a shady 

* Glasses for this purpose may be had at my store. 



57 

situation during the summer. If kopt in a 
room or a garden, and not plungfd, they 
are not of so good a colour; and unless 
kept in very large pots, they lose their 
lower leavf^s. They generally lose their 
leaves in the winter, and must then have 
bur very little water. They are propa- 
gated by planting the cuttings in the sum- 
mer, in the same manner as the verbena, 
or by seed, which must be sown in April, in 
pots filled with light mould, and kept con- 
stantly moist, by which means they will 
blow in autumn* 



The Cobcea Scandens, 

Is a most beautiful flowering creeper, 
fit to ornament a flf)wer-stand, back of a 
gn^en-house, &c. They do remarkably well 
to run up a column or tree, or if planted 
against a wall. They thrive in almost 
any situation where they have plenty of 
light and air, even in a northern aspect, 
where many hardy creepers will not thrive. 



58 

If wanted to grow in the air during the 
summer, (as they are killed by the first 
hard frost) they may be planted out in 
April or May where wanted; give plenty 
of water, and defend them from frost* 
About tiie month of June, if the weather 
be at all warm, they will grow very rapid- 
ly — six inches a day, or more, and will co- 
ver an arbour in a very short time, if 
they are against a tree, they will climb of 
their own accord, and never require any 
nailing or tying; but if grown against a 
wall, they must be constantly nailed. 

They are easily propagated by seed, 
which they bear plentifully in a green- 
house, or in a sunny situation in the open 
ground; or by cuttings, which should be 
planted in pots of light rich monld any 
time during the summer, and the pots 
plunged in the ground in a warm situa^^ 
tion; or in bark-beds, placing glasses over 
them, which should be kept close, and well 
watered; by which means they strike root 
in aboutsix weeks, when they may be plac- 
ed in small pots, and plunged in the ground, 



59 

in a warm situation, and will be fit for 
planting out in a month. 

Being a green-house plant, it is necessary 
to raise a fresh supply of young plants 
every year, either by cuttings raised at the 
latter end of the summer, or by seed sown 
in the spring about March or April. If it 
be raised in a room, it must be kept warm, 
and the window never opened against it. 
It may also be kept in a cucumber-bed or 
hot-house, where convenient, and they will 
flower much sooner. 



The Heliotropium Peruvianiim, or Peruvian 
Hdiotropej 

Is a beautiful sweet-scented plant for the 
different apartments of a house. Few plants 
require more water. It is very impatient 
of frost, and may be plunged in tife ground, 
in a warrn situation, about July, when the 
weather becomes settled. It is easily pro- 
pagated, both by cuttings and by seed* 



60 

First, By Cuttings.— Pvnvide some very 
light mould, and plant the cuttings, which 
should be young shoots, in large pots, in 
the early part of the summer, plunging the 
pots to the rims in a very warm situation. 
Keep the glasses close over them every 
morning when the weather is hot and dryj 
but the plants must never be suffered to get 
dry. They strike good root in a m »nth, 
and are then fit for planting in small pf)ts. 
The glasses should never be shaded from 
the sun, provided they are air-proof. 

The reason why the cuttings are recom- 
mended to be planted in pots, is, because 
the worms often draw every plant out, if 
they are planted in the earth. But when 
they are planted in pots, this may be pre- 
vented by placing a piece of tile close over 
the hole at the bottom of Uie pot, and se- 
veral small pieces round it, to draw off the 
water. The mould should be carefully ex- 
amined before the pots are filled, and if it 
contain any worms, they must be picked 
out. 



6i 

By Seed. — The seed should be sown iu 
pots of rich mould, and kept in the hot- 
house, or plunged in a dung or bark-bed. 
They should be planted off into small pois 
when about three inches high, and will blow 
in the autumn. When the plants are plung- 
ed in the ground in summer, they may be 
taken into rooms while in flower* 



The Camellia Japonica, or Japan Rose. 

Is a beautiful well-known plant, and may 
be kept in the room, green-house, or hot- 
house. There are many varieties; but the 
most common ones are thi Single and Dou« 
ble Red, D mble White, and the Double 
Striped. They require rather large pots, 
not liking to be too much confin*^^ d at the 
root. Fine sandy loam, mix^d with a lit* 
tie black, sandy, or boggy mould, and a 
very small proportion of light rotten dung, 
or leaf-mould, well mixed together and 
sifted, is a proper compost to pot them in. 



6S 

> 

They should be shifted every year in the 
beginning or middle of the summer. 

Tliis is a hardy green-house plant, and, 
when kept in rooms, should have as much 
air admitted to tht-m as possible, and have 
a good washing all over the heads of the 
pi mts once a month at least with clear wa- 
ter, by means of a watering-pot with the 
fose on. If the plants are very dusty, it 
will be necessary to use a piece of sponge, 
or any soft substance, to wash each leaf 
singly, bolding the. leaf in the palm of the 
hand, with the under side of the leaf down- 
wards; and afterwards give them a wash- 
ing with the watering-pot of water, as no- 
thing disfigures this plant so much as dust. 

They are propagated by seed, layers, 
cuttings, and inarching. The double sorts 
are generally propagated Uy inarching them 
on the single, and sometimes raised by lay« 
ers. The single answer b«st, and make 
the finest plants, when raised from seed 
imported from China, and sown early in 
spring in middle-s;ze<l puts filled with the 
same kind of compost as beiore recom*- 



63 

nienfled for potting the plants. The pots 
must be plunged in a dujig or bark-bed, as 
the plfints will not rise without it* 

The Single Red may be raised from cut- 
tings, which should be the young shoots of 
last yearns growth, and planted in pots 
during the spring in the same compost as 
tfiat used for the seed: they are tiien to be 
plungod in a gjod heat in a hot-house, &c. 
covered with hand or bell glasses, and kept 
modi-rately moist by frequent waterings. 

W hen the body or stork of the single sort 
is ab ut the size of a large goose-quill, it is 
then large enough for inarching. 

The method of doing this is as follows:* 
The stocks must be placed so near the tree 
from which the graft or scions are to be 
taken, that the young shoots may be easily 
bent down and joined to the stock. Per- 
haps it may be nec^essary to erect a small 
stage round the plant from which they are 
to be inarched, which may be done in a 
green-house, hot-house, or apartment of the 

* The month of April is the best time for performing 
the work. 



64 

house. Havin]^ placed the stocks so as 
that the gi'atts may be easily joined to them 
about the middle, or near the bottom of the 
stem, then, being provided with a sharp 
knife and fine tough bass,* make an inri- 
sion into the stock about one and a half or 
two inches length-ways, and about one- 
third of the thickness of the stock in the 
middle of the incision, but thinner at the 
top and bottom: then cut the side of the 
shoot or graft in the same manner, as 
smooth as possible, about six or eig!»t inches 
from the top, so as that the bark of both 
may join. This done, cut a small slit or 
tongue in ihe scion or graft upwards, with- 
in halt an inch of the top of the incisions, 
about a quarter of an inch in length, but 
not more; then make another tongue in the 
stock of the same length downwards, so as 
that the tongue of the graft may fit exact- 
ly into it, joining the rind exactly on every 
side, and tying them together as close as 
possible with a piece of bass. This part of 

* A smooth part of the stock must be chosen, where 
the graft may be joined to it. 



65 

the stock must then be clayed over with 
well-tempered clay, bringing it an inch 
above, and an inch below the parts that are 
joined together, and making it very close, 
so as to keep out both sun and air* The 
scion is not to be separated from the tree 
tin firmly united to the stoc k, and they be- 
gin to grow together; nor is the head of 
the stock to be cut off till then. 

The method of propagating by layers is 
as follows: — If you have the conveniency 
of a melon or other pit, where you have a 
good dung or tan heat, place fine mould on 
the top of the bed six or eight inches in 
thickness, turning the plants out of the 
pots, and planting them in the mould. If 
it be necessary to lay the plant a little slop- 
ing, in order to lay down more of the 
branches, it will not be the worse. Lay 
down all the branohes you can, giving each 
a twist; or cut them in the same manner as 
directed for carnations. <'ive them plenty 
of water till they are struck. 

But this is. of the two, the most objec- 
tionable method of propagating them; nor 

6* 



66 

do I recommend it, as they are a long time 
striking root, and sometimes will not strike 
at all. After the layers are rooted, they 
may be potted in small pots, and the old 
plant taken up and re-potted. 



Myrtles. 

The Myrtiis Communis is the species 
most commonly cultivated, for adorning 
rooms, green-houses, &c. Tliere are many 
varieties of this species, and all very hardy 
green-house plants, viz. 1. The Broad- 
leaved Dutch; 2. Venus; 3. Roman; 4. Box- 
feaved; 5. Italian; 6. JSutmeg; 7. Orange* 
leaved; 8. Gold-striped; 9. Silver-striped, 
two varieties; 10. Thyme or Rosemary- 
leaved; 11. Double Flowering. 

The first, third, fifth, sixth, and eleventh 
sorts are all very hardy, and thrive well 
growing against a south, or any warm 
sunny wall, and only require to be matted 
in hard frost: if they are not sheltered at 
all, the frost very seldom destroys them. 



67 

They are indeed often killed almost to the 
ground, but generally break and grow 
again very strong during summer. 

Those intended for rooms or green-houses 
should be in moderate-sized pots, not too 
much confined at the root, and potted in 
rather strong rich mould. They should be 
well supplied with water, and waslied over 
the heads with clean water, by means of 
a watering pot and rose, once a month. 
To keep them dwarf and bushy, the tops 
of the young leading shoots should be 
pinched off as they advance in growth. 
They are propagated by cuttings of the 
young shoots in summer, stripping the 
lower leaves off, planting and treating 
them the same as the Verbena. 



OIC 

GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS, ^c. 

KEPT IN ROOMS. 



Having already given directions for the 
management of a few different sorts of 
green-house plants separately, which are 
commonly grown in rooms, I now come to 
treat of the management of them in gene- 
ral. 

All green-house plants, &c. kept in rooms^ 
must be constantly supplied with water, 
which should be always applied on the tops 
of the pots, and from no consideration 
whatever should any be suffered to remain 
in the water-pans under the pots, (the con- 
sequence of which has been before spoken 
of) particularly in the winter season, when 
they* must also be kept clean from dead 
leaves, &c. When the plants begin to 
draw, which will be discovered by their 



M^itaHMMktilHtlMHlKy 



69 

weak and sickly appearance, and the 
branches growing long and weak, the tops 
of the shoots should bejust nipped off with 
the finger and thumb, or a pair of scissors, 
whirh will cause them to grow bushy and 
handsome; and be sure not to forget to fu- 
migate them when there is any appearance 
of insects. The method of doing this has 
been before described. 

With respect to air, the plants should 
have a good share in fine warm weather. 
Many people open the under-sash windows 
where the plants stand, which is a very 
bad practice, as they are then exposed to 
the draft, which injures them more than if 
they w^ere entirely exposed to the open air. 
If the top-sash be drawn up, or a window 
opf^ned, where there is no plants, in fine 
weather it will prove beneficial to them. 
If the under-sash be opened where the 
plants stand, they should be removed out 
of the draft to some other part of the 
room. 

All green-house plants should be shifted 
every year, about the month of May, into 



7« 

lari^er pots, in light rich sandy compost, 
such as is recommended for hyacinths, as 
most of them thrive well in it. 

The different sorts of geraniums are ^p- 
Morally raist^d by cuttings, which strike 
Vf^ry free, and are planted and treated rhe 
isame as the htliotrop*^; or many of the 
sorts may b<^ raised by sped sown in Mar^^h, 
in pots of fine light mould. By these 
means new varieties are often obtained. 



A TABLE 

OF 

THE LINN^AN CLASSES, 

WITH THEIR ORDERS AKD EXAMPLES. 



A Class in botany is the first and high- 
est division in the arrangement of plants 
systematically, and by which the whole ve^ 
getable kingdom is divided into twenty- 
four classes, distinguished by some essen- 
tial and invariable mark in the fructifica- 
tion, possessed by all the plants of each 
respective class; and by the same rule, each 
class is subdivided into secondary divisions 
or orders, the orders into genera, and each 
genera or genus into species, and the spe- 
cies into varieties. 

A class, in botany, is defined to be an as- 
semblage or collection of genera, that have 



73 

some strikiiij^ mark in common, derived 
from the fruciification, i. e, generative parts 
of the flower; as, for instance, one stamina, 
or male organ. Every genus and species, 
therefore, having flowers with one stamina, 
belong to the first class, (Monandria, u e. 
of one and a man; J of two stafnina, be- 
longs to the second class, (Diandria, i. e. 
of two and a man;) and of three stamina, 
or male organs, to the third class, (Trian^ 
dria^ i. e, of three and a man; J and so of 
al! the others, as explained under each 
head in the succeeding arrangement of the 
twenty four classes. Each of these classes 
as above noticed, are subdivided into sec- 
tions or orders, and that, as the establish- 
ment of the classes, is founded on the num- 
ber of stamina, or male organs: the orders, 
or secondary divisions, are f uinded prin- 
cipally upon the number and situati )n of 
thi^ pistil, i. e. style, or female organ, or 
some other striking part of the fructifica- 
tion; as, for example, I observed above, 
that all plants havinjs: only one stamina, 
belong to the first class, Monandria; of 



73 

which class th^re are but two orders, the 
first of which having one st}le, fMonogy- 
nia^ i. ^. one and a womanj is Monandria 
Monogynia^ one stamina and one style; the 
second have two styles, fBigynia^ of two 
and a womanj is Monandria Bi^ynia^ one 
stamina and two styles: the same is also 
observable in the second, third, and every 
sur^ce din]^ class, as is sufficiently illustrat- 
ed in the following arrangement of the 
twenty four classes, and their respective 
secondary divisions or orders, according to 
the Linnsean sexual system, as founded on 
the fructification (ir sexes of plants. 

First Class. 

Monandria, of one and a man^ one male 
organ^ comprthending plants with herma- 
phrcidite flowers, having but one stamina, 
or male organ, and of which there are but 
two orders, these derived from the number 
of styles in each order. 

The orders are, 

1. Monandria Monogtnia— one stami- 
na and one style. Canna Indica. 



74. 

£. Moxaistdhia Digynta — one stamina 
and two styles. Blitum, Capilatum. 

Second Class* 

DiANDRiA, of twice, or two and a man^ 
two male organs, plants with hennaphrodite 
flowers, having two stamina, or male or- 
gans, and consists of three orders, derived 
from the number of styles, or female or- 
gans, in each order. 

The orders are, 

1. DiAXDRA MoisroGYNiA — two stamina 
and one st\le. Jesminum Azoricum. 

2. DiANDRiA DiGYNiA — two Stamina 
and two styles. Anthoxanthum Odoratum. 

3. DiAiVDRiA Trigyivia— diandrous 
plants with three styles. Piper Nigrum. 

Third Class. 

Triandria, of three and a mail, three 
male or^aws, plants having hermaphrodite 
flowers, with three stamina, or male or- 
gans, and consists of tliree orders. 

Tiie orders are, 

1, rRCAXiiRiA Mo?^oGYNiA — three sta- 
mina and one style. Crocus Veruus. 



75 

2. Triandbia DiGYNiA — three stamina 
and two styles. Sacrharum Officinaru'.n. 

3. Triajvdria Trigynia — three stamina 
and three styles. PoJycarpon Tetraphy 1- 
luffl. 

Fourth Class. 

Tetrandria, of fonVf Sfc. comprehends 
plants having hermaplirodite fl<»vvers5 
with four stamina of eq^ual length, and com- 
prises three orders. 

The orders ar<', 

1. Tetrandria Monogynia — four sta- 
mina and one style. Scubiosa Alpina. 

2. Tetrandria DiGYNiA — four stamina 
and two styles. Hamamelis Virginica. 

3. Tetrandria Tetragynia — four sta- 
mina and four styles. Ilex Canadensis. 

Fifth Class. 

Pbntandria, of/re and a man^Jlve male 
organs^ comprises plants having herma- 
phrodite flowers, with five stamina, and 
consists ot six orders. 



7& 

The orders are, 

1. PENTANDRIA MONOGYNIA — fiVC Sta- 

mina and one style. Phlox pilosa. 

^. Pentandria DiGYJMiA — five Stamina 
and two styles. Beta Vulgaris. 

3. Pbntamjria Trigynia — five stami- 
na and three stylt^s. Rhus Glabrum. 

4. Pejvtandria Tetragynia — five sta- 
mina and four styles. Paniassia Palustris, 

5. Peivtaivdria Pentagynia — fiv- sta- 
mina and five styles. Linum humile. 

6. Pentandria Polygynia — five sta- 
mina and many styles. Myosurus Mini- 
mus. 

Sixth Class. 

Hexandria, of six and a man^ six male 
organSf plants with hermaphrodite flow rs, 
havi >(5 six stamina, and comprehends five 
orders. 

The orders ar^, 

1. Hexandria Monogynia — six stami- 
na and oni* style. Amaryllis Lutea. 

2. Hbxa%dria Digynia — ^six stamina 
and two styles. Oriza Sativa. 



77 

3. Hexandkia Trigynia — six stamina 
and three styles. Rumex Crispus. 

4. Hexandria Hexagitnia — six stami- 
na and four styles. Damosonium, Indicum 

5. Hexandria Polygyna — six stamina 
and many styles. Alisma Plantago. 

Seventh Class. 

Heptandria, of seveUf ^c. consisting 
of plants with hermaphrodite flo\\ers, hav- 
ing seven stamina, and furnishes four or- 
ders. 

The orders are, 

1. Heptandria Monogyni4 — seven sta- 
mina and one style. Esculus, Pavia. 

2. Heptandria Digynia — seven sta- 
mina and twostylis. Limeum, Africanum. 

S. Heptandria Tetragynia — seven 
stamina and four styles. Saururus Luri- 
dus. 

4. Heptandria Heptagynia — seven 
stamina and seven styles. Septis Capen- 
sis. 



r* 



M 



78 

Eighth Class, 

OcTlNBHixi, of eight and a man^ eight 
male organs, plants with hermaphroditic 
flowers, having eight stamina, or male or- 
gans, and comprehends four orders. 

The orders are^ 

1* OcTANDRiA MoNOGYNiA — eight sta- 
mina and one style. Fushia, Coccinea. 

2. OcTANDRiA DiGYifiA-— eight stamina 
and two styles. Galinea Africana. 

3. OcTANDRiA Trigynia — eight stami- 
na and three styles. Polygonum fagopy- 
rum. 

4. OCTANDRIA Tetragynia— eight 
stamina and four styles. Paris quadri- 
folia. 

JS*inth Class* 

Enneandria, of nine, <^c. comprehends 
plants with hermaphrodite flowers, having 
nine stamina, and consists of three or« 
ders. 

The orders are, 

1. Enneandria Monogynia — nine sta- 
mina and one style. Laurus Sassafras. 



79 

2. Enneandria Trigtnia — nine sta- 
mina and three styles. Rheum Palmatum. 

3. Ennbandria Hexagynia — nine sta- 
mina and six styles. Butomus umbellatus. 

Tenth Class. 

Decandria, of ten and a man^ ten male 
organs, plants with hermaphrodite flowers, 
having ten stamina, or male organs, and it 
consists of five orders. 

These orders are, 

1. Decandria Monogtnia — ten stami- 
na and one style. Cassia Marilandica. 

£. Decandria Digynia — ten stamina 
and two styles. Hydrangea, Hortensis. 

3. Decandria Trigynia, ten stamina 
and three styles. Cucubalus Stillatus. 

4. Decandria Pentagynia — ten sta- 
mina and five styles. Sedum Ternatum. 

5. Decandria Dh.cagynia — ten stami- 
na and ten styles. Phytolacca decandria. 

Eleventh Class* 

DoDBCANDRiA, of twelve and a man, 
twelve male organs, comprises plants with 



80 

hermaphrodite flowers, having twelve or 
more stamina, or male organs, and consists 
of SIX orders. 
Tiie orders are, 

1. DoDKCANimiA MoNOGYNiA — twclve 
or more stamina and one style. Hudso- 
nea Ericoides. 

2. DoDECANDRiA DiGYNiA — twelve or 
more stamina and two styles. Agrimonica 
Parvi flora. 

3. DODECANDRIA TriGYNIA — tWClvC or 

more stamina and three styles. Reseda 
Odorata. 

4. DoDECANDRiA Tetragynia — twelve 
or more stamina and five styles. Calli- 
gonum Pallasia. 

5. DoDECANDRIA PllVTAGYNIA — twelvC 

or more stamina and eight styles. Glinus 
Lotoides. 

6. DodecandriaDodecagynia — twelve 
or more stamina and twelve styles. Sem- 
pervivum, Hirtum. 



Bi 

Twelfth Class. 
IcosANDRiA, i){ twenty and a man^ or hus- 
band^ twenty male organs^ consists of plants 
with hermaphrodite flowers, having about 
twenty or more stamina, or uale organs, 
that are ins^Tted either into the inner side 
of the calix, or to the corolla; by this last 
circumstance is the class in question distin- 
guished from that immediately following, 
Polyandri&f which have also frequently 
about twenty stamina, but they are insert- 
ed into the receptacle This class, Icosan- 
dria^ is also distinguishable by having a mo- 
nophyllous, hollow, or cone ave calix, and 
to the inner side of which the petals are 
fastened by their claws; and there are five 
orders. 

The orders arc, 

1. IcosANDRiA MoNOGYKriA — twenty or 
more stamina and one style. Cactus, pen- 
tagonus, 

2. IcosANDRiA DiGYNiA — twenty or 
more stamina and two styles. Cratsegus 
coccinea. 



82 

3. ICOSAISTDHIA T|^IGYNIA — twCtlty or 

more stamina and three styles. Sorbus 
Ancuparia. 

4. IcosajvdriaPentagynia — twenty or 
more stamina and five styles. Mespilus, 
Ovalis. 

5. IcosANDRiA PoLYGYNiA — twenty or 
more stamina and many styles. Rosa, Lu- 
tea. 

Thirteenth Class. 

PoLYANDRiA, of mamj and a man^ or hits- 
hand^ many male organs^ plants with her- 
maphroditc flovvers, having many stamina, 
or mal<* organs, which in this class are in- 
serted into tfie receptacle, and which dis- 
tini::Mish(S it from that immediately preced- 
ing, Icosandriaf where the stamina are also 
nunierous, but are attached to the inner 
part '>f the calix, &c. therefore all plants 
having mor*^ than twelve stamina inserted 
in the receptaculum are of this class, Poly* 
andria^ and consists of seven orders. 

The orders are, 

1. PoLYANDRiA MoNOGYNiA — many sta- 
mina and one style. Cistus Viilosus. 



83 

£. PoLYANDKiA DiGYNiA — many stami- 
na and two styles. Pseony Humilis. 

3. PoLYANDRiA Trtgynia — many sta- 
mina and three styles. Delphinum Ajaris. 

4. PoLYANDRiA Tbtragyjvia — many 
stamina and four styles, Cimicifuga Pal- 
mata. 

5. PoxYANDRTA Pentagynia — many 
stamina and five styles. Aquilegia Cana- 
densis. 

6. PoLYANDRiA Hexagynia — many sta- 
mina and six styles. Stratiotes Aloides. 

7. PoLYANDRiA PoLVGYNiA — many sta- 
mina and numerous styles. Magnolia, Cor- 
data. 

Fourteenth Class. 

DiDYNAMiA, of twice^ and power, two 
powers, comprehends plants with herma- 
phrodite flowtrs, having two long and two 
short stamina: in1:his circumstance of the 
stamina, long and short, consists the main 
difference betwoon the (lass in question, and 
that of the fourth, which have also f'Hir 
stamina^ but which are of equal lengthy 



84 

therefore all plants having four stamina 
that are of unequalflength, two of them 
long, and two short, are didynamous, !• e. 
of the class Didynamia^ of which there are 
but two families or ord^TS, and are founded 
upon the absence and presence of the peri- 
carpiunif or seed-vessel. 
1 he orders are, 

1. DiOYNAMlA GyMNOSPERMIA — tWO 

long and two short stamina, and naked 
seeds (^gymnospermiaj lodged in the calix. 
Lavendula spica. 

2. DiDYNAMIA AnGIOSPERMIA — ^^tWO 

long and two short stamina, and covered 
seeds fangiostpermiaj lodged in a proper 
pericarpium, or seed-vessel. Digitalis pur- 
purea* 

Fifteenth Class* 

Tetradynamia, of four and power^four 
powerSf plants with hermaphrodite flowers, 
having four long and two short stamina, 
and consists of two orders, founded on the 
pericarpium; such as have a short round 
pod, (^sUiculosaJ as honesty and candy tuft. 



85 

«nd such as have a long pod fsiliquosafj 
as stock-gilliflower, &c. 

The orders are, 

1. Tetrad YNAMiA Sii.iciti.os a — four 
long and two short stamina, and short 
round pods. Iberis, odorata. 

£. Tetrad AN AMiA SiiKtuosA — four long 
and two shr»rt stamina, and long seed-pods. 
Brassica Rapa. 

Sixteenth Class. 

MoNADELPHiA, of aloiie^ and a brother- 
hood, one brotherhood^ hermaphrodite flow- 
ers, having all the stamina united below 
into one body, forming a column, through 
which pass^^s the stylp; and the orders are 
seven, founded on the number of united 
stamina. 

The orders are, 

1. MoxADELPHiA Triandria — three 
monadelphious stamina. Ferraria, undu- 
lata. 

2. MONADELPHIA PeNTANDRI A— flVe 

monadelphious stamina. Passiflora, macu- 
lata. 



86 

3. MoNADEXPHiA Heptandria — seven 
monadelphious stamina. All the Palergo- 
nunis. 

4. MoiTADEtPHIAOCTANDRIA — eight mo- 

nadelphious stamina. Aitonia Capensis. 

5. Monad elphiaDecandria — ten mo- 
tiadelphious stamina. GeraniumMaculatum. 

6. MonadejlphiaDodecandria — twelve 
or more monadelphious stamina. Monso- 
nia, speciosa. 

7. Monadelphia Poxyandria — nnmer- 
ous monadelphious stamina. Hibiscus, Pa- 
lustris. 

Seventeenth Class. 

DiADELPHiA, of twice and a brotherhood, 
two brotherhoods in the samejloxver, herma^ 
phrodite flowers, having two sets or co- 
lumns of united stamina, i. e. united below 
into two different bodies; the flowers are 
all papilionaceous, and have apparently ten 
stamina, but which are only two, one of 
which splits longitudinally from the middle 
upward, and terminates in about nine parts,^ 
appearing like so many distinct filaments; 



87 

and the other stamina is simple or undi- 
vided, and lies closely along the fissure of 
the divided filament, which have g* nerally 
as many antherse as divisions, and the sim- 
ple stamina have but one antherse; and 
from the number of antherse in both fila- 
ments is founded the orders, which are 
four. 

The orders are, 

1. DiADELPuiA Pbntandrta — diadelph- 
ous stamina, having five antherse. 

2. DiADELPHiA HfcXANDRiA — diadelph- 
ous stamina with six antherse. Fumaria 
Solida. 

3. DiADELPaiA OcTANDUiA — diadelph- 
ous stamina with eight antherse. Polyga- 
lia Amara. 

4. DiADELPHiA Dbcandkia — diadelph- 
ous stamina with ten antherse. Lupinus 
Perennis. 

Eighteenth Class. 

PoLYA DELPHI A, of many brotherhoods, 
many brotherhoods^ or unions of stamina, in 



88 

the same flower 9 hermaphrodite flowers that 
have each many sets of united stamina^ i. e. 
united by their filaments into several dis- 
tin( t bodies, and consists of four orders, 
derived from the number of stamina or an- 
therse, appearin,s; in each flower. 

The orders are, 

1. PoLYAOELPHiA Decandria — ten po- 
lyadelphious stamina in each set. Theo- 
broma, cacao. 

£. POLYADELPHIA DoDECANDRIA tWeJ VC 

or more polyadeiphious stamina in each 
set. Abroma augusta. 

3. PoJLYABEIiPIIlA ICOSANDRIA twentj 

polyad«^lphious Stamina. Vielaieuca, lanata. 

4. PoLYADELPHIA PojL¥A.\DRlA many 

polyadeiphious stamina. Hypericum ma- 
cula turn. 

*J\ineteenth Class. 

Syngenesia, of together and generation, 
plants with compound flowers, having all 
the antherse, or gen*^rative male organs, 
united into onecylindric body, and through 



89 

which the style, or generative female or- 
gan, rises, uniting in the same manner. 

This class contains the numerous tribe 
of compound flowers, and the orders, or 
secondary divisions, arise from the differ- 
ent modes of intercommunication, or poly- 
gamia of the florets that compose each 
flower; such as, the florets all hermaphro- 
dites—hermaphrodites . and females— her- 
maphrodites of no sex or neuter — males 
and females — the florets in distinct cups 
within the main one — simple floretsj this 
class is divided into five orders. 

The orders are, 

1. SyngenesiaPolygamia^q,uai.is — 
equal polygamia, or the florets all herma- 
phrodites. Lactuca, Sativa. 

2. SyNGENESIA PoiiYGAMIA SUPEKFLUA 

— ^superfluous polygamia, or the florets of 
the disk all hermaphrodites, and the cir- 
cumference or radius all females, which 
latter are said to be superfluous or useless, 
because the impregnation of them is unne- 
cessary, the fructification being completed 
in the hermaphrodites in the centre. Ta- 
nacetum. Vulgar e. 8* 



90 

3. STNGBNTESIA POIYGAMIA FUTJSTA^ 

NBA — frustrated polygamia, L e. the florets 
in the radius are neuter, or of no sex, be- 
ing devoid both of stamina and style, so 
are ineflectual to the fructification, as in 
the case of sun-flower, &c. in which the 
fructification is perfected only, in the her- 
maphrodites, in the disk. Helianthuis an* 
num. 

4. Syngenesia Polygamia Necessa- 
RiA — necessary polygamia, or being male 
and female florets, and no liermaphrodites, 
the presence of the male and females is ne- 
cessary for perfecting the fructificationr 
Baltimora recta. 

5. Syngenesia Polygamia Segregata 
— separated polygamia, the florets of each 
flower separated from each other by means, 
of partial cups, containing one or more 
florets, and stand within the general calix, 
as in globe-thistle and elephant's foot* 
Echinops, ritro. 



91 

Twentieth Class. 

Gt^tandria, of a woman and a man, 
plants haviniEf the stamina or male organs 
placed either upon the style or female or- 
gan, or the common receptacle el >ngated 
in the form of a style, supportin,fij both the 
pistillum and stamina; and is divided into 
three orders, founded each on the number 
of stamina in each flower. 

The orders are, 

!• Gynandria Diandria — twogynand- 
rous stamina in each flower. Orchis, cilia- 
ris. 

2. Gyi^andria Hex and ri a — six gy- 
nandrous stamina in each flower, Aristo- 
lochia, sippo. 

S. Gtnandria PoiiYANDRTA — many gy- 
nandrous stamina in each flower. Arum 
Virginicum. 

Twenty-first Class. 

MoNOECiA, of alone and a housCf plants 
with male and female flowers apart, or 
alone, in separate cups; that is, within dif- 
ferent cups on the same plants as in the cu- 



92 

cumber^ &c. and is divided into ten orders, 
arising from the number, union, and situa* 
tion of the stamina of the male flowers. 

All monoecious plants are also termed 
androgynous, from the same circumstances 
of male and female flowers on difierent 
parts of the same plant. 

The orders are, 

!• MoNOECiA. MoNANDRiA — monoccious 
plants with one stamina. Chara, Flexilis. 

2. MoNOECiA DiANDRiA — monoccious 
plants with two stamina. Lemna, Minor. 

3. MoNOECiA Triandria — monoecious 
plants with three stamina. Zea Mays. 

4. MoNOECiA Tetrandria — monoeci- 
ous plants with four stamina. Morus Alba* 

5. MoNOECiA Pentandria — monoecious 
plants with five stamina. Ambrosia Elatior* 

6. MoxoECiA Hexandria — monoecious 
plants with six stamina. Zizania Aquatica* 

7. MoNOECiA PoLYANDRiA— monoecious 
plants with numerous stamina. Quercus. 

8. MoNOECIA MONADELPHIA — moUOC- 

cious plants with monadelphous or united 
stamina, i. e. all the stamina united below 
into one cylindric body. Pinus Inops. 



m 

9. Moi9^oEiciA Syngenesia— monoeci- 
ous plants with synganesious antherse; that 
is, with all the antherse, or tops of the sta- 
mina, united into a cylinder, as m the cu- 
cumber, gourd, bryony, &c. See class Syn- 
genesia. Gourd, Cucumber, &c. 

10. MoNOECiA Gyivandria — monoeci- 
ous plants with gynandrous stamina; i. e. 
the filaments situated upon a sort of imper- 
fect style. See the class Gynandria, An- 
drachne Telephioides. 

Twenty-second Class. 

DioECiA, of twice and an habitation, two 
habitationSi male and female flowers on two 
separate plants; that is, all the plants of 
this. class are either male or female, not 
hermaphrodite, as in the greater number of 
classes; nor with male and female on the 
same plant, as in the immediately preced- 
ing class, Morioecia^ but male and female 
flowers on distinct plants, as in the genus 
cliffortia, conaria, carica, moonseed, spi- 
nacli, bop, and many others; and the fe- 
male plants only produce seeds, which, 



94 

however, require the vicinity of a male 
plant, or the aspersion of the male dust to 
impregnate the female flowers, or at least 
to render the seeds fertile; and from the 
seeds of the females, both male and female 
plants are produced. 

This class is divided into thirteen orders, 
and are founded upon the number, union, 
and situation of the stamina of the male 
plants. 

The orders are, 

1. DioECiA MoNAXDRiA — dioeeious 
male plants with one stamina. Pandanus 
Spiralis. 

2. DioEciA DiAXDRA — dioecious male 
plants with two stamina. Salix Rubra. 

3. DioeciaTriandria — dioecious male 
plants with three stamina. Empetrum Al- 
bum. 

*. DioECiA Tetrandria — dioecious 
male plants with four stamina. Viscum 
Album. 

5. DioECiA Pbntrandia — dioecious 
male plants with five stamina. Cannabis 
Sativa. 



■^ 



95 

6. DioEciA Hexandria — dioecious 
male plants with six stamina. Smilax As- 
pera, 

7. DioEciA OcTANDRiA — dioecious male 
plants with eight stamina. Populus Alba. 

8. DioEciA Enneandria— dioecious 
male plants with nine stamina. Mercuria- 
lis Annua. 

9. DioECiA Decandria-— dioecious male 
plants with ten stamina. Carica Papaya. 

10. DioECiA DoDECANDRiA — dioecious 
plants with twelve stamina. Minespermum. 
Virginicum. 

11. DioECiA PoLYANDRiA — dioecious 
male plants with numerous stamina. Cy- 
cas, Revoluta. 

12. DioEciA MoNADEiiPHiA — dioecious 
male plants with monadoiphious or united 
stamina, being united by their filaments i«jto 
a pillar or column. Juniperus. 

13. DioECiA Gynandria — dioecious 
male plants with gynandrous stamina, or 
that are situated on a kind of style. See 
the class Gynandria. Clutia Coliina. 



96 

Twenty-third Class* 

PoLYGAMiA, of many and marriage, plants 
of a variety of sexes, that is, hermaphro- 
dite flowers, and likewise male or female 
flow^ers, or both on the same plant, or on 
distinct plants of the same genus; and from 
the different circumstances of polygamia 
this class is divided into three orders. 

The orders are, 

1. PoLYGAMiA MoNOEciA — the polyga- 
mia all on the same plant. Holcus Bicolor. 

2. PoLYGAMiA DioEciA — the polyga- 
mia on two distinct plants. Fraxinus Ame- 
ricana. 

3. PoLYGAMiA Trioecia — the polyga- 
mia on three distinct plants. Ficus, carica- 

Twenty-fourth Class. 

Cryptogam lA, of to hide or conceal and 
a marriage^ a clandestine marriage^ — plants 
that have their fructifications either entire- 
ly concealed, or, from their minuteness or 
situation, are imperfectly visible: such are 
the ferns, mosses, flags, sea- weed or wrack^ 
afid mushrooms, and of which the classic 



character is very imperfect, and the gene- 
ra of course without any essential mark or 
distinction, so great is the obscurity that 
still prevails in this considerable part of 
the vegetable kingdom. 

This class of imperfect plants is divided 
into four orders or families, very different 
in their general habit. 
The orders are, 

1. Cryptogamia Filices — the Filices 
or Ferns. 

This is a large tribe of plants, defined to 
be plants which bear their flower and fruit 
on the back of their leaves; but the flower 
and other parts of fructification are so mi- 
nute,* or imperfectly visible, that they do 
not admit of any regular classic distinc- 
ti(m. 

2. Cryptogamia Musci — Mitsci orMos- 
ses. 

This is also a large tribe of plants with 
imperfect distinguishable fructifications: 
their chief characteristic distinction is — 
anthcrse without filaments — male flowers, 
constituted by the presence of the antherje— 

9 



98 

the antherse have, or are destitute of a 
calyptra — seeds entirely naked, being de- 
void of the cotyledon or cover, so exhibit 
the naked erabrio. See Musci. 

3. CuTPTOGAMiA Alg^ — MgCB, Flags 
or Sea-weed. 

A numerous tribe of imperfect plants, 
whose root, stem, and leaf are all one, and 
their fructification imperfectly known. 

4. Cryptogamia Fungi — Fungi, or 
Mushrooms. 

A very extensive tribe of plants, whose 
fructification is still entirely unknown. 

By the foregoing arrangement of the 
twenty-four classes of tlic vegetable king- 
dom, and their respective orders, the stu* 
dent in gardening and botany will easily 
explain to himself the proper class and 
order of all the different generaj especial- 
ly, as to each genus we have all along sub- 
joined the name of the class and order to 
which it belongs, as also a plant of each or- 
der; observing, that all the different species 
and varieties of each genera or g«'nus, are 
also all of the same class and order. 



t^u^bm 



99 

Doctor Withering in his arrangement 
of British plants, has distributed the plants 
of four of the Linnsean classes, Gynandria, 
Monoecia, Dioecia, and Polygamia among 
the first nineteen, according to the num- 
ber of their stamens. 



THE EN1>. 



'■■ ^.--AyA.-.^ 



CONTENTS. 



Page. 



Hyacinths grown in the open ground, - 5 

Compost or soil necessary to hyacinths, - 6 

Moisture or wet detrimental to hyacinths, 8 

Evaporation of hyacinths, - - - 11 

Time of plantins; hyacinths, - - - 15 

Frost detrimental to hyacinths, - - 16 

Time of taking them out of the ground, - 17 
How to treat hyacinths and narcissus, grown 

on glasses, - - - - - 21 

To blow hyacinths and narcissus in pots, 24 

To blow crocuses and snowdrops in pots 27 

To blow lilies of the valley in pots, - 28 

Sweet or due van thol tulips, - - 29 

Guernsey lilies, - - - . _ 3q 

Ranunculusses, time of planting, &c. - 30 

Anemonies, do. do. - - 34 

Single and double jonquils, do. - » 35 

White lilies, 37 

Pinks and carnations, how to treat, - 38 

do. do. how to lay, - - 39 

do. do. propagate by pipings 41 

Roses, the best for forcing, 6ic. - - 43 



■ ^/>|j>ui.'||P"'|* <J '^1^ 



CONTENT J$. 






Page 


Tuberoses, time of planting, &c. 


- 48 


Violets, how to treat. 


- 5^ 


Persian Irises, how to treat. 


. 53 


Mignonnette, sown in pots, - ^^ 


. 54 


On Green-house Plants, 




Verbena, or sweet vervain. 


. 55 


Fushia Coccinea, - . - 


. 06 


Cobsea Scandens, a beautiful creeper. 


- 57 


Heliotropium Peruvianum, how to treat. 


- 59 


Camellia Japonica, or Japan rose, how to 




propagate, &c. - . - 


. 61 


Myrtles, of sorts, how to manage, &c. 


- 66 


On green-house plants, kept in rooms. 


- 6a 


Linnsean classes of botany, with their or- 




ders, &c. *• - * • 


- n 



A 



|V H147 74 V' I 




O N O 



. . . s - 0^ o '<...' A. <\ ' 








I 





"»b 






f^gy N.MANCHESTER. 
'^ * INDIANA 






.1^ ♦ .x^r^Nv 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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